Maybe my mouth and my ego are big because I just won a race, but I think I have a couple tips that might help some newer drivers of this mod.

One of the trickiest details in this mod is the brake fade. I had the hardest time coping with this when I started driving these cars. These cars have steel brakes that work at a much lower temperature than the carbon brakes in today's F1 cars. As you put the brakes on, their temperature rises very quickly to the optimum (450C), and as they rise above this, you begin to lose braking power. This isn't a big problem by itself, because it requires less braking power at lower speeds to lock the wheels anyway. What CAN cause a big problem is when the fronts start to get much hotter than the rears, because now your brake balance is changing! The fronts are losing braking power, but the rears are biting just fine, so your rear wheels are going to lock up first and cause you to spin as the downforce comes off.

The way I used to cope with this was to max out the brake ducts, minimize the brake pressure, and move the brake balance so far forward that the fronts would lock first no matter how overheated they were. But this makes your braking distances very long, and makes it difficult to keep the fronts from locking. A better solution is to fit thicker brake discs at the front. It's a little counterintuitive, but the thicker discs will stay cooler because they will be converting the same amount of kinetic energy to heat, but storing it in a larger volume for a lower "energy density" (and "energy density" is the same thing as "temperature").

It's equally important to have thinner discs at the rear. The fronts are going to overheat no matter what you do, so you want to be sure the rears are overheating nearly as much.

Another tricky thing about the brakes is that the wheels on these old cars have more rotational inertia than other open-wheel mods that are out there. This means that when you lock a wheel, it is more likely to stay locked. On the plus side, the wheels are also more likely to keep turning once they start, so you can jab the brakes pretty firmly without locking a wheel. The net result of all this, I find, is that the best techinque is to gently pump the brakes. Try to anticipate the lock-up, and lift the brake pedal gently BEFORE it happens, just for a split second, and then you may be able to floor the pedal again as the brake fade kicks in. If you do lock a wheel, you will need to pump more aggressively. Lift COMPLETELY off the pedal, then get hard on the brakes again as soon as the wheel starts turning again. But naturally, you will want to avoid locking the brakes even when you have mastered this technique.

For reference, I typically use 2.6cm discs at the front, 2.0 at the rear, brake duct = 2, brake pressure = 94%, engine brake map = 0.

Thanks Aubrey, I'll try your notes on brakes for the next one. Good explanation.

Thanks for the tips Aubrey. I'll try it out and see how it works for me.

What I've been doing for quite some time after I got the tip from Peter, is to set the balance to 50:50.
This has been working very well for me actually. I always use the 2.6cm discs front and rear and 98-100% pressure. And then I make sure to have the duct set low enough to keep the temp up.
I will end up having 7-800 degree hot discs at times,but it doesn't have problems locking up.

Yes, certianly if you have 50/50 brake balance, you will always have equal brake fade at both ends. I used to use that kind of setup on the F1-2005 cars until R2P released the brake fix. You do have to balance the car with a lot of throttle or engine brake map with that kind of setup though, so it hurts your fuel milage. But it's definitely the way to go if you want perfectly balanced brake fade.

Thanks for information.